All Outputs (16)

Numerical investigation of swash–swash interaction effects on beachface evolution using Nonlinear Shallow Water Equations (2023)
Journal Article

This paper presents a numerical investigation of multiple identical swash events to study the swash–swash interaction processes and their impacts on beachface evolution. The numerical model, based on the Nonlinear Shallow Water Equations, is first ca... Read More about Numerical investigation of swash–swash interaction effects on beachface evolution using Nonlinear Shallow Water Equations.

Investigation of Momentum Correction Factor in the Swash Flow (2022)
Journal Article

Swash flows are commonly modeled using the nonlinear shallow water equations (NSWEs). In the derivation of the NSWEs, directly from depth-averaging the Navier-Stokes equations, a so-called momentum correction factor, β, emerges. In this study we pres... Read More about Investigation of Momentum Correction Factor in the Swash Flow.

Wave overtopping at near-vertical seawalls: Influence of foreshore evolution during storms (2022)
Journal Article

This work presents the results of an investigation on how wave overtopping at a near-vertical seawall at the back of a sandy foreshore is influenced by sequences of erosive storms. The experiments were carried out in the Large Wave Flume (GWK) at Lei... Read More about Wave overtopping at near-vertical seawalls: Influence of foreshore evolution during storms.

Green Nourishment: An Innovative Nature-Based Solution for Coastal Erosion (2022)
Journal Article

Coastal erosion poses an urgent threat to life and property in low-lying regions. Sand nourishment is increasingly used as a nature-based solution but requires significant natural resources and replenishment over time. In this study, a novel form of... Read More about Green Nourishment: An Innovative Nature-Based Solution for Coastal Erosion.

A logarithmic bottom boundary layer model for the unsteady and non-uniform swash flow (2021)
Journal Article

This paper presents a bottom boundary layer model for the unsteady and non-uniform flow in the swash zone, by extending the momentum integral method so as to include spatial gradients. The developed model is further incorporated into a hydrodynamic m... Read More about A logarithmic bottom boundary layer model for the unsteady and non-uniform swash flow.

A nonlinear perturbation study of a shoreface nourishment on a multiply barred beach (2020)
Journal Article

The 1D (cross-shore) nonlinear nourishment-as-a-perturbation model of Chen and Dodd (2019) is extended to include wave streaming and depth-varying mean return flow. This is shown to lead to physically consistent values for the migration rate of small... Read More about A nonlinear perturbation study of a shoreface nourishment on a multiply barred beach.

Modeling swash zone hydrodynamics using discontinuous galerkin finite-element method (2020)
Journal Article

A two-dimensional numerical model for the solution of the nonlinear shallow water equations (NSWEs) using the discontinuous Galerkin finite element method (DGFEM) is presented. A new adaptation of the thin-film approach is developed for the wetting/d... Read More about Modeling swash zone hydrodynamics using discontinuous galerkin finite-element method.

Swash zone morphodynamic modelling including sediment entrained by bore-generated turbulence (2020)
Journal Article

In this paper we introduce a mathematical model of sediment entrainment due to bore-generated turbulence in a shallow water context. In this model, the entrainment is assumed to be proportional to the energy decay rate across a bore on a mobile bed.... Read More about Swash zone morphodynamic modelling including sediment entrained by bore-generated turbulence.

Experimental Analysis of Wave Overtopping: A New Small Scale Laboratory Dataset for the Assessment of Uncertainty for Smooth Sloped and Vertical Coastal Structures (2019)
Journal Article

Most physical model tests carried out to quantify wave overtopping are conducted using a wave energy spectrum, which is then used to generate a free surface wave time series at the wave paddle. This method means that an infinite number of time series... Read More about Experimental Analysis of Wave Overtopping: A New Small Scale Laboratory Dataset for the Assessment of Uncertainty for Smooth Sloped and Vertical Coastal Structures.

An idealised study for the evolution of a shoreface nourishment (2019)
Journal Article

We develop an idealised one dimensional (cross-shore) morphodynamic model that couples wave, tide and sediment dynamics to study the effect and evolution of a shoreface nourishment. Sediment fluxes driven by wave skewness, wave asymmetry (both onshor... Read More about An idealised study for the evolution of a shoreface nourishment.

Quasi-exact solution of the Riemann problem for generalised dam-break over a mobile initially flat bed (2019)
Journal Article

This paper investigates dam-break problems with flows on one or two sides of zero or nonzero velocities over a mobile initially flat bed, and quasi-exact solutions are presented by solving the Riemann problems using the simple wave theory. The flow s... Read More about Quasi-exact solution of the Riemann problem for generalised dam-break over a mobile initially flat bed.

Numerical modelling of the flow and bed evolution of a single bore-driven swash event on a coarse sand beach (2018)
Journal Article

This paper examines the numerical prediction of the sediment transport and bed evolution for a single swash event on a coarse sediment beach. In these conditions bed load is the dominant mode of sediment transport. Laboratory experiments of a single... Read More about Numerical modelling of the flow and bed evolution of a single bore-driven swash event on a coarse sand beach.

Riemann solution for a class of morphodynamic shallow water dam-break problems (2017)
Journal Article

This paper investigates a family of dam-break problems over an erodible bed. The hydrodynamics are described by the shallow water equations, and the bed change by a sediment conservation equation, coupled to the hydrodynamics by a sediment transport... Read More about Riemann solution for a class of morphodynamic shallow water dam-break problems.

An idealised study for the long term evolution of crescentic bars (2017)
Journal Article

An idealised study that identifies the mechanisms in the long term evolution of crescentic bar systems in nature is presented. Growth to finite amplitude (i.e., equilibration, sometimes referred to as saturation) and higher harmonic interaction are h... Read More about An idealised study for the long term evolution of crescentic bars.

Advances in numerical modelling of swash zone dynamics (2016)
Journal Article

We present a comprehensive and critical review of work on the numerical modelling of swash zone processes between 2005 and 2015. A wide range of numerical models has been employed for the study of this region and, hence, only phase-resolving approach... Read More about Advances in numerical modelling of swash zone dynamics.

Absorbing–generating seaward boundary conditions for fully-coupled hydro-morphodynamical solvers (2015)
Journal Article

This paper presents a new technique to compute open boundary conditions for fully-coupled hydro-morphodynamical numerical solvers based on the Non-Linear Shallow Water and the Exner equations. These conditions allow the generation of incident signals... Read More about Absorbing–generating seaward boundary conditions for fully-coupled hydro-morphodynamical solvers.