All Outputs (28)

An assessment of the roller approach for wave breaking in a hybrid finite-volume finite-difference Boussinesq-type model for the surf-zone (2018)
Journal Article

This paper investigates the application of the roller approach for breaking waves in a 1D hybrid finite-volume finite-difference weakly-nonlinear Boussinesq-type model. The vorticity transport equation is employed to model the movement of vorticity t... Read More about An assessment of the roller approach for wave breaking in a hybrid finite-volume finite-difference Boussinesq-type model for the surf-zone.

Time-clustering of wave storms in the Mediterranean Sea (2017)
Journal Article

In this contribution we identify storm time-clustering in the Mediterranean Sea through a comprehensive analysis of the Allan Factor. This parameter is evaluated from long time series of wave height provided by oceanographic buoy measurements and hin... Read More about Time-clustering of wave storms in the Mediterranean Sea.

Advances in numerical modelling of swash zone dynamics (2016)
Journal Article

We present a comprehensive and critical review of work on the numerical modelling of swash zone processes between 2005 and 2015. A wide range of numerical models has been employed for the study of this region and, hence, only phase-resolving approach... Read More about Advances in numerical modelling of swash zone dynamics.

Intra-swash hydrodynamics and sediment flux for dambreak swash on coarse-grained beaches (2016)
Journal Article

The paper reports on dambreak-type swash experiments in which intra-swash hydrodynamics and sediment flux are measured for swash on a coarse sand beach and a gravel beach. Flow velocity and depth are measured using PIV and LIF respectively; the intra... Read More about Intra-swash hydrodynamics and sediment flux for dambreak swash on coarse-grained beaches.

Morphodynamical modelling of field-scale swash events (2015)
Journal Article

In the present work, data for three single swash events are selected from those available for an accretive tide that occurred at Le Truc Vert beach (France) during a measurement field campaign at that location. These events are primarily chosen becau... Read More about Morphodynamical modelling of field-scale swash events.

Uncertainties in the physical modelling of the wave overtopping over a rubble mound breakwater: The role of the seeding number and of the test duration (2015)
Journal Article

This paper presents an experimental study on the variability in the wave overtopping discharge on a simple rubble mound breakwater caused by different random starting phases and different lengths of incident wave sequences sharing the same energy den... Read More about Uncertainties in the physical modelling of the wave overtopping over a rubble mound breakwater: The role of the seeding number and of the test duration.

Absorbing–generating seaward boundary conditions for fully-coupled hydro-morphodynamical solvers (2015)
Journal Article

This paper presents a new technique to compute open boundary conditions for fully-coupled hydro-morphodynamical numerical solvers based on the Non-Linear Shallow Water and the Exner equations. These conditions allow the generation of incident signals... Read More about Absorbing–generating seaward boundary conditions for fully-coupled hydro-morphodynamical solvers.

The role of offshore boundary conditions in the uncertainty of numerical prediction of wave overtopping using non-linear shallow water equations (2014)
Journal Article

The paper examines the variability of wave overtopping parameters predicted by numerical models based on non-linear shallow water equations, due to the boundary conditions obtained from wave energy density spectra. Free surface elevation time series... Read More about The role of offshore boundary conditions in the uncertainty of numerical prediction of wave overtopping using non-linear shallow water equations.